As an American who married a Georgian Im not ashamed to admit, in the beginning, I had no idea where the Republic of Georgia was. Quickly after my first visit I became quite enthralled with the capital, Tbilisi. We have ventured back many times and that love has only grown stronger. This is my non-touristy perspective on the beautiful and fascinating city.

TBILISI VIBES

Tbilisi is an amazing city full of beauty, history, and cultural significance. Georgians are well known for their hospitality, food, and wine. Now, as a Southern Texan, I have pretty high standards when it comes to hospitality. Visiting Tbilisi, I had to turn that expectation down slightly.

When engaging with Georgian people, I’ve found them to be pleasant and helpful, but they aren’t necessarily smiley or outwardly cheerful—at least not in the way I was accustomed to. Their warmth tends to show itself differently. Give it a little time, and you may discover that what initially seems reserved can turn into genuine kindness and hospitality.

If you are walking down the city streets smiling and nodding at people passing by, you may receive a cold stare in return. It is also a pretty good giveaway that you are not from Georgia.

This is especially important to remember when visiting the markets and expecting to negotiate with vendors. As soon as they realize you are from somewhere else, they may be less inclined to be flexible with the price. In the past, my husband has actually directed me not to smile or speak when we were within earshot of a vendor so they wouldn’t charge him triple. 😂

I learned pretty quickly that navigating Tbilisi requires a slightly different approach than I was used to. And honestly, I kind of love that about the city.

GEORGIAN HOSPITALITY

I would say you will find true Georgian hospitality at the dinner table. Every time we visit, whether with family or extended friends, the table is always set and full of delicious, savory food. The wine glasses seem to have an eternal stream that can never quite run dry, and there is certainly no shortage of things to toast.

And then there is khinkali. (heen-KAH-lee)

Khinkali are juicy Georgian dumplings made with a variety of fillings. The dumpling is formed by rolling out extremely thin layers of dough, filling it with lamb, beef, pork, or even potato, and then gathering the dough at the top and twisting it into a little “stem.”

There is a proper way to eat them, too. You hold the stem with your fingers or a fork, leaving the dumpling body facing upward. Take a bite from the side and carefully slurp up the delicious broth inside before eating the rest of the dumpling. Holding the dumpling upside down creates its own little bowl, helping you keep all that savory goodness where it belongs—on your plate and not all over your shirt.

Trust me on this one.

There are many choices to feast on at a Georgian dinner table, and I have to say my favorite, above all else, is khachapuri (hoch-ah-poor-ee). This heavenly cheese bread is made in many different ways, mostly depending on the region of Georgia.

The Adjaruli khachapuri is the best, IMO. Its close second is the Imeruli version made by my sister-in-law, Tamuna. The Adjaruli version arrives looking like a large bread boat, filled with Georgian cheeses and baked to golden perfection. Before serving, a raw egg is added to the top. Once the bread reaches your table, you take a fork and spin the egg into the melted cheese, incorporating it into all that gooey, cheesy goodness.

It is basically a boat full of melted cheese, bread, butter, and egg. What’s not to love?

The Imeruli version Tamuna makes is her favorite because it comes from the region her family is from. Imeruli khachapuri differs from the Adjaruli version mostly in presentation. The cheese is layered inside the dough, and in its final form, the khachapuri is round, almost like a small pizza, with the cheese baked inside and a light golden crispness on top.

This version is less juicy, but it is also much easier to take with you on the go.

When I sit at Tamuna’s table, I am greeted with warm, soft, crispy cheese bread, delicious kebabs, Georgian cucumber and tomato salad, eggs, cheese, sausage, plenty of wine, and so much more. You will never leave a Georgian home hungry. That’s guaranteed!

MOVING AROUND TBILISI

So, I have a personal advantage when navigating my way through Tbilisi: my husband becomes my tour guide. I tell him where I want to go, and he gets us there. That means I don’t have to put much effort into thinking about how to get around. 😂

His biggest advantage, though, is the language. While you will find plenty of younger Georgians who speak some English, you may have a harder time finding older generations who can comfortably converse with you.

Thankfully, getting around Tbilisi is pretty easy. Download the Bolt app—it’s essentially the European version of Uber. Put in your destination, and a driver will come to your designated meeting point, pick you up, and take you where you need to go. There isn’t much need for conversation, but I would still suggest politely saying hello—gamarjoba—and thanking your driver with madloba at the end of the ride.

And if you happen to be traveling with a Georgian husband who can handle the directions and the language? Even better. 😉

Tbilisi itself is pretty spread out, and I don’t find it highly walkable if you’re trying to squeeze in a lot of sights in one day. My advice is to pick a micro area of the city, use Bolt, or take the metro as close as possible and then walk and explore that specific area. Please note that many places have hilly areas. You can go from a pleasant stroll to “why did I think this was a good idea?” pretty quickly. Always wear comfortable shoes!

I find the Tbilisi Metro easier to use than the one in NYC. Obviously, there are fewer lines running, but the Tbilisi Metro just seems more straightforward. I will say, upon my first ride, I found myself quite shocked at how far down you have to take the escalator to reach the platform!

There are other methods for traversing the capital city, but I generally don’t use them myself. You can look into bus routes or car rentals. I will say that renting a car for the city would be a very brave choice for a tourist. LOL.

MY FAVORITE TBILISI SPOT

While Tbilisi has plenty of beautiful places to explore, the place I find myself returning to most is Old Town Tbilisi.

I love wandering the cobblestone streets, where the old and new seem to collide around every corner. The streets wind up the hills toward Narikala Fortress, which sits high above the Mtkvari River, offering breathtaking views across the city. The fortress dates back to the 4th century and has watched over Tbilisi through centuries of change.

I find the contrast between the brightly colored, weathered homes and the modern residential buildings so intriguing. It feels like the old city is constantly meeting the new one.

Old Town is also home to Tbilisi’s famous sulfur baths. I have not experienced a kisi yet, but it is definitely on the list for our next visit. A kisi is an invigorating exfoliating scrub and wash performed at the baths. I have been told it is quite an experience—and I intend to find out for myself!

Quick takeaway:

Tbilisi is a city that doesn’t reveal itself all at once. It’s a little chaotic, a little romantic, wonderfully old, and constantly changing. The best way to understand is to wander its streets, linger over a long meal, listen to the language around you, and let the city unfold at its own pace.

Forward Always, Shannon

If this is your fist time here, welcome to Forward & Fernweh. Explore more travel stories, destination guides, and honest reviews, or visit my About Page to learn more about the journey behind the blog.

There is another Georgia that most Americans aren’t very familiar with. THIS Georgia is a small country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, nestled in the Caucasus. The Republic of Georgia has my heart, because it is my husband’s home country.

SO, WHERE EXACTLY IS GEORGIA?

If you’re anything like I was before I really got to know the country, you might have a vague idea that Georgia is somewhere over there — perhaps near Russia, perhaps somewhere in Eastern Europe.

And honestly, that’s part of what makes Georgia so fascinating.

Its location has shaped nearly everything about it.

Georgia sits at a crossroads between cultures, religions, empires and trade routes. For centuries, people have passed through this small piece of the Caucasus, leaving their influence behind while Georgians fiercely maintained their own identity.

You can see that history everywhere.

There are ancient churches and monasteries, medieval fortresses, cave cities, Soviet-era buildings and modern cafés and wine bars — all existing within the same country.

And then there is Tbilisi.

TBILISI: WHERE I WANT TO BEGIN

Tbilisi is Georgia’s capital and has served as its cultural, political and economic center for roughly fifteen centuries. The city sits along the Mtkvari River, surrounded by hills and mountains.

The name Tbilisi comes from the Georgian word “tbili,” meaning “warm,” referring to the natural hot sulfur springs around which the city developed.

And this is very Tbilisi.

History here isn’t something you simply read about. It’s woven into the streets.

Walk through Old Tbilisi and you’ll find narrow lanes, colorful wooden balconies, churches, sulfur baths and courtyards. Look a little farther and you’ll find Soviet architecture, contemporary restaurants, wine bars, art spaces and a nightlife scene that feels surprisingly modern.

The city is old.

But it doesn’t feel stuck in the past.

A COUNTRY WITH AN EXTRAORDINARY HISTORY

Georgia’s history goes back thousands of years. The region was home to ancient kingdoms including Colchis and Kartli-Iberia, and its position between major powers meant that Georgia spent much of its history defending its independence and identity.

Georgia adopted Christianity as a state religion in the fourth century, making it one of the world’s oldest Christian countries.

Centuries later came what Georgians often regard as their Golden Age, followed by invasions and periods of domination by larger empires.

Georgia eventually became part of the Russian Empire, briefly regained independence as the Democratic Republic of Georgia in 1918, and was incorporated into the Soviet Union in the early 1920s.

After decades of Soviet rule, Georgia declared independence again in 1991.

That history is important when you visit.

Because Georgia doesn’t simply feel like a country that happens to be located between Europe and Asia.

It feels like a country that has spent centuries determined to remain Georgia.

WINE IS NOT JUST SOMETHING GEORGIANS DRINK

Okay, we need to talk about wine.

Georgia has one of the world’s oldest continuous winemaking traditions. The traditional qvevri method involves making and storing wine in large clay vessels, traditionally buried in the ground.

UNESCO has recognized the traditional Georgian qvevri winemaking method as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Wine isn’t simply a tourist attraction here.

It is woven into Georgian culture, food, family gatherings and hospitality.

And hospitality might be the word that best explains Georgia to someone who has never been.

COME HUNGRY

Georgian food deserves its own post — which, don’t worry, it will get.

There is khachapuri, the famous cheese-filled bread; khinkali, those wonderfully messy soup dumplings; walnuts, herbs, eggplant, beans, grilled meats and an endless parade of dishes meant to be shared around a table.

But Georgian dining isn’t really about ordering an entrée and eating it yourself.

Meals are communal.

Tables fill up.

Wine gets poured.

Someone makes a toast.

Then another toast.

And another.

Suddenly, what you thought would be a quick dinner has turned into an entire evening.

That is Georgia.

AND THEN THERE’S THE LANGUAGE

One of the first things you’ll notice in Georgia is the alphabet.

It looks completely unfamiliar — and that’s because it is.

Georgia has its own distinctive writing tradition, and UNESCO recognizes the living culture of three Georgian writing systems.

Even after spending time around Georgian speakers, I still find myself fascinated by the letters.

They look almost like little works of art.

And then you hear the language spoken.

Georgian has a sound and rhythm all its own, and the country’s musical traditions are equally distinctive. Georgian polyphonic singing has been recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

WHY GEORGIA?

I could give you a list of reasons to visit Georgia.

I could tell you about the mountains, the Black Sea, the ancient monasteries, the wine, the food, the architecture and the incredibly affordable cost of traveling here.

And I will.

That’s what this little corner of Forward & Fernweh is going to be about.

But the real reason Georgia is going to have a place here is much simpler.

My husband is Georgian.

I’ve been lucky enough to see this country not just as a visitor, but through the eyes of someone who calls it home.

I’ve eaten at tables with his family. I’ve wandered streets that have meaning to him. I’ve returned more than once, and every time I discover something I didn’t see before.

So I’m not going to pretend I’m an objective observer.

I’m already a little bit in love with Georgia.

And maybe that’s the best way to introduce you to a place.

This is Georgia.

Not the one in the American South.

The other one.

And I have a feeling you’re going to want to know her.

A LITTLE TASTE OF GEORGIA

Tbilisi is just the beginning. There is so much more to discover in Georgia-from ancient wine traditions and incredible food to its mountains, monasteries, seaside towns and unforgettable hospitality. I hope you will follow along as I share the Georgia Ive come to know and love.

Forward Always, Shannon

If this is your first time here, welcome to Forward & Fernweh. Explore more travel stories, destination guides, and honest reviews, or visit my About Page to learn more about the journey behind the blog.